Travels: Balkan Adventure Part 3
Our trip to Bugaria had started off kind of on the wrong food, but it was definitely a interesting series of events. When Tighe and I woke up to head to the train, we thought we knew where the bus station was, but we were dead wrong. We figured it would take about 30 minutes to get to the station, giving us about 15 minutes to buy the ticket and hop aboard, but after walking 25 minutes, there was no train station in sight. We decided to catch a cab, although we didn’t find one for a good 10 minutes, and when he took us there, it was at least a 10 minute drive. When we arrived, we saw that our train hadn’t left yet, so we bought tickets and jumped aboard, only for the train to leave 30 seconds after. Now, after that stroke of luck, we arrived at our seats and were next to a couple of old Serbian or Bulgarian ladies who were adamant in talking to us, although we couldn’t understand one word they spoke. After ten or so minutes of attempted conversation, explaining we were from North America and such, this lady opens up a carton of cigarettes and hands them to Tighe and myself. We had no idea what was going on, but at the time we figured she was just giving them to us since we were being nice, but we were wrong. We put them in our bag, and when we got to the border, we noticed the border guard asking the ladies what they had to claim, one saying “cigarette?”. They shook their heads and opened their bags to prove they had nothing to claim. After that whole ordeal, the lady asked for her cigarettes back. That’s right, we had just unknowingly smuggled cigarettes for an elderly women from Serbia to Bulgaria, something that if caught, could have got us foreigners in a lot of trouble.
Sofia
We only spent a few nights in Sofia, and it wasn’t the most eventful of places. One of the most interesting things about Bulgaria is that everything was in Cyrillic, it was hard to find a place that used the alphabet, although I wouldn’t expect it since Sofia isn’t a very big tourist destination. We stayed in the Mostel Hostel, which is the most popular hostel located in the city, and a big destination for backpackers traveling through Europe. Although the city itself wasn’t to exciting, I met a lot of interesting people. I met a guy from Poland who worked as a Software Engineer at Google, working on YouTube. I Also met a couple from the Netherlands who were on a bike trip, 18 months, across the world and were waiting for their visas for Iran (hope that worked out for them, although going through there at this time would definitely be a bad idea). Another interesting thing we found out while staying in Bugaria was from a traveler from the USA who was studying in Copenhaggen; he told us that when he came from Greece to Bugaria, the Greeks fined him 600 EUROS because after your student visa expires, you are suppose to leave the Schengen area. We weren’t aware of this rule, although we heard it from a couple people, but after much deliberation this changed our plans from going to Greece, to instead heading to Croatia.

Example of the Cyrillic spelling used throughout the city
So, Tighe and I spent a lot of time walking around the city and seeing what it had to offer. One of the coolest things we saw was the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, which is the biggest Orthodox cathedral in the world. We also ran into a market that sold all kinds of interesting stuff, most interesting being items from World War Two. Since Bugaria was part of the Axis, there was a lot of Nazi memorabilia such as pocket watches, currency, guns, and other things you can’t find even in the markets of Berlin. I wasn’t too impressed with the food in the country, although we didn’t go to very many nice dinners, but the city didn’t have nearly as many food joints as most cities I’ve been to in Europe, and since food is kind of a minimum requirement in any city for me, I wasn’t too impressed. At night, Tighe and I went in search of bars, and while the drinks were cheap, not very many people spoke English, so it was hard to communicate with any locals, although the second night in Bugaria was a lot of fun. We met a guy from the USA who had been in Bulgaria for a week or so, and knew the best place to go. This guy was really interesting though, he told us that when he was 13, he met an exchange student from Uzbekistan, and because of him decided to learn Russian and go to the place himself. Apparently bringing about 1000 USD for the entire year in that country was enough to make him one of the richest and most famous guy around; apparently people would say hi to him and he hadn’t seen that person in his whole life. Granted, he could be full of lies, but I’ve never heard of Uzbekistan before, it sounds random and small enough to be true. This guy brought us to the University grounds, which we got to by taxi, and it was one of the flashiest areas I had ever seen, it was almost like Vegas. The clubs were packed with students, most of whom spoke some English, so we didn’t have to stay in the corner by ourselves. While I was talking to a Bulgarian girl, a fight erupted at the table near us, with glass shattering directly beside my foot. I grabbed the girl and stepped back, and let the bouncers of the club handle things, and afterwords a friend of hers told me that there was an American who was walking around the bar challenging people to fights, and so he got one. He also told me that he’s sure this American would wind up in home town papers as a missing person, and would never return… So for all of you who are idiots when you’ve had a few, I wouldn’t recommend Bulgaria. Also, I made sure I told these people I was Canadian, I definitely didn’t want to seem affiliated with that guy.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
Overall, I’m not sure if I would exactly recommend Sofia as a main destination, but its worth checking out if you stay for a day or two. Anymore then that and I don’t know what I’d do. But the hostel we stayed in was great, it had free breakfast AND dinner, not many offer that. From here we were headed to Croatia, and after a quick stop in Belgrade (where we stayed in the same great hostel, The Black Catz), we were off to our first destination, Split.
Split, Supetar, and Dubrovnik
The visa issue crushed me. I was extremely keen on going to Greece to end off this part of the trip, but instead, I felt like I had to settle on Croatia. Now, in hindsight, even if I could go back in time and actually have the option to go into Greece instead, I still would have chosen Croatia, hands down. I figure if I went to Croatia at a later date, I may have never found one of my favorite hostels, the Shangri-La, where we did nothing but chill out in there common room, go to the beach, drink and barbecue. Also, if I went to Greece first, I would have never wound up in Athens and happen to be there the same day DJ Tiesto was performing (but I’ll save that story for when I write up about my adventures in Greece).

Split, Croatia
So after Bulgaria, we took a quick stopover in Belgrade and took shelter with hostel man at the Black Catz Hostel, and then headed off to Split. In typical fashion, Tighe and I had no clue where to go, what to do, or where to sleep. We were greeted at the port by an old man who offered us a place to stay at an extremely reasonable price, so we jumped on that and camped out for the night. Unfortunately, the night could have been better had it had internet, or air conditioning, or Tighe complaining he felt sick but sounding more like homesick, but a lot of the time it seems like everything happens for a reason. The next day we checked out and headed to one of the more popular hostels in Split, but unfortunately (although that view later changed for fortunately) they didn’t have any rooms, but we weren’t exactly looking to stay on mainland Croatia anyways, we were more interested in the islands. We booked a room at the Shangri-la hostel on the island of Brac recommended by the hostel we were at, checked out the sights in Split and headed off to Supetar on Brac.

Near the port of Supetar
After hoping off the ferry, we were immediately greeted by a couple of girls, Dora the co-owner and Croatian native, and Holly from Boston who just came for the walk. I can’t pinpoint what it was, but these two gave me high hopes for this hostel, and those hopes were not only met, by exceeded. We arrived to be greeted by three South Africans whom where traveling the world, an Australian named David who took the summer off to work and live in the Shangri-la, and the other co-owner Vinko. The weather was regrettably bad for the first two days, and that fact combined with the hostel only being a week old, and there weren’t any others in the hostel for our stay, but that didn’t make the stay any less amazing.

Common room where much Entourage and Man vs Wild was watch, where Hookah was smoked, and where Kings Cup was played.
We didn’t spend much time relaxing on a beach, but I found sitting in a common room with strangers watching Entourage and Man vs Wild while smoking hookah just as relaxing, if not more so. That’s essentially what our first two days consisted of, and while that might sound boring to you, watching TV and doing nothing is drastically different from everything I’ve been doing in the last 4 months, so this was a welcoming change of scenery. In the evening, the bad weather didn’t stop the South African boys from cooking some fine Croatian hamburgers and steak. We ate until we could eat no longer, and then the beginning of our night started with a game called Kings Cup, which was the starting point for checking out the various (two) bars on Brac. They were pretty cool, although I was expecting more tourists; everyone there was Croatian, so there was a slight communication barrier. Although I’m sure Tighe wouldn’t exactly call it slight, as an altercation with him and a large Croatian man almost concluded the night. Another entertaining thing I found out on the first night out in Brac was that there was more drama in our hostel between the girls and the South Africans then in high school. I won’t go into the details, but it was amusing finding out each piece of the puzzle as the night went on.

South African boys cooking a mean set of meat

Dora and David
When the sun finally emerged from hiding, we set our sights on a beach that Tighe and I saw in many postcards in Split, the beach that essentially was the reason we came to Brac in the first place. Its name is Bol beach, and is situated on the opposite side of the island. We could have taken the bus, but that would have been dull, so Tighe and I set our sights on renting a scooter. A piece of advice; if you’ve never used a scooter before, keep your legs on the floor, accelerate, then lift them up after you’ve gained some speed. Both Tighe and I had never ridden scooters before, but one of the requirements of being able to rent one was that you had ridden one before, and it was quite obvious we both hadn’t. The man who was managing the scooters was not impressed. But, we picked it up and we headed 33 kilometers across the island through one of the most impressive scenic routes I have ever seen, and eventually reached our destination of Bol beach. We arrived, tanned, swam, and did the typical beach thing, just relaxed. Now, the beach wasn’t your typical sandy beach, it was actually covered in tiny smooth rocks, which is what most beaches in Croatia and Greece are like. I personally prefer sand, but it was still great nonetheless. And for all of you out there wondering, yes, there were many topless women both young and (unfortunately) old, it is Europe after all. After a day in the sun, we traveled back, checked out some cool spots on the island and returned our scooters.
Bol beach in the far distance
At Bol beach
On our last day, we didn’t do too much. People were still recovering from hangovers, others were just plain tired, and some of us had long days driving and swimming. On the last night David, Vinko and I went to watch X-Men : Wolverine, which was a MARVELous (pun intended, haha, yeah I know I’m lame) movie. We headed off to the ferry via Split the next morning, and from split we caught our twenty-five hour ferry from Split to Bari. Although it wasn’t too bad, we played big two with a girl from Vancouver and two girls from Australia for a couple hours. Then, there was a seven-hour stopover in Dubrovnik where we got to check out the sights, it’s a really nice city I would highly recommend it. Afterwards, after hours of worrying about our visas for what ended up being no worry at all, we hoped back onto the ferry and found the perfect couches to sleep on for our overnight to Bari.
Crystal blue waters of Croatia
Croatia was incredible. I got to do exactly what I wanted to do, relax and have fun. Tighe and I were getting sick of seeing city after city, and Croatia was a perfect change of scenery. A beautiful island combined with one of the most fun, chilled out hostels I’ve ever stayed in made Croatia a country that I definitely plan on visiting again. But that essentially concludes the Balkan adventures; Tighe stayed with my family and I in Mola di Bari, and he was headed back to New York. Good times man, see you on the east coast sometime.
Tighe, Vinko and I at the Shangri-la















